Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Land's End

The must-do hike in Forillon National Park is the Anse-aux-Amerindiens to Cap-Gaspe trail. There is no road out to the end of the peninsula, and Cap-Gaspe. The only way to get to the Point, and the lighthouse, is to hike the trail or ride the bike path; the trail is 8km and the bike path is 6.4 km. We got a nice early start, well, early for us, and were at the trailhead by 10:30 am.

The trail took us along the shore with views of the coves and pebble beaches. There was a light rain and we were prepared with our down jackets and raincoats. We had also resurrected some gloves so our hands were warm, too.

Each cove was different. Some had sandy beaches, others were pebbly, rocky or had huge slabs of rock for the beach.

This fir tree interested me because it was covered, top to bottom, with pine cones - maybe you can see them. There seem to be more pinecones than needles. Talk about a possessive parent! 

The last kilometer of the trail took us inland to the center of the peninsula and a ridge through an evergreen forest. The smell, in the light rain, was wonderful and piney.

From one of the view-points on the trail we could see Bonaventure Island and just catch a glimpse of Perce Rock. 

By the time we got to the Point, the rain had stopped and the sun was threatening to make an appearance. We met this man, and his wife, who were traveling from Switzerland. We have met several travelers from Switzerland. Frederick always likes to talk with them because of his Swiss-Italian heritage. When this man, his name is Hans Hurter, learned Frederick's last name he got very excited. Turns out he worked for the Buhler Company for many years as a Personnel Manager. The company even spells Buhler the correct way! (Most Buhler names in the US are spelled Buehler or Bueller.) Frederick had a great time asking him about other family names from Switzerland. 

Meanwhile, up on a small hill, this porcupine was eating its lunch.

The lighthouse at Cap-Gaspe.

The trail we took was also the end of the International Appalachian Trail and there were two plaques that commemorated the trail. This one for the Georgia to Maine Appalachian Trail.

And this one that commemorates the International Appalachian Trail - Quebec to Maine.

While we were finishing up our conversation with Hans, who should appear from around the lighthouse but Tony and Cathy. Remember them from the Bonaventure Island tour -  the couple that were thinking about full-timing and who visited us in the Airstream? It really is a small world; it was great to see them again.

This is the view over the edge of the cliff where the lighthouse sits. There is a 375 meter trail down to an observation platform. But before we go down...

This canon may seem out of place, but at one time it was used to warn sailors of the cliffs in the fog. The "fog cannon" (1883-1890) was loaded with blanks and fired periodically when it was foggy. It was dangerous and not very effective.

This building is the oldest building at the Cap-Gaspe station. The red horn that you see at the peak of the roof is the "steam whistle" (1874-1883). This method was used in the years before the "fog cannon". It was a simple system that used a boiler to produce steam, a valve and a horn. When the valve was opened, the steam escaped, sounding the horn. 

The third method that was used were the "sound rockets" (1894-105-), like setting off fireworks. Small rockets were fired from the roof of the Cap-Gaspe Station. They exploded high over the sea with a loud bang that could be heard much further away than the fog cannon. 

Method number four was the Diaphone (1950-1970), which used compressed air. The compressed air was pumped into huge chamber. When the air was allowed to escape, it vibrated a metallic "reed" on the horn of the Diaphone, producing a piercing sound followed by a low-pitched moan. 

Finally, the method used today - the electronic "Fog-Whistle" (1970 - ...). The system now used is controlled by a visibility sensor. When visibility drops below two nautical miles, the fog horn starts working automatically. The sound is accentuated by two 800-watt battery-powered amplifiers. Since 1983, this system runs on solar energy.

When the fog shrouds the shore the wail of foghorns help sailors navigate safely. Each lighthouse has a unique "call" that enables sailors to pinpoint their location in foggy weather. The following sequence is the "call' of the Gaspe Lighthouse, every 60 seconds.
     A 3-second blast
     3 seconds of silence
     A 3-second blast
     51 seconds of silence

After learning about the evolution of the fog horn, we hiked down to the observation platform. An information plaque informed us that this 95 meter cliff takes its name from the Mi'kmaq/Micmac word, "Gespeg", meaning "land's end." 

Samuel de Champlain sailed by here in 1634. At that time there was a sea stack off the point - you can just see the remains of it in the water to the left. Champlain refers to it as being called the "forillon", an old French word meaning a pinnacle of rock surrounded by water. Erosion continued to sculpt the forillon until, by the 18th century, its shape reminded sailors of an old woman. In 1851, the Old Woman disappeared into the sea. 


This is the view of the Point in the other direction. The plaque said that there is another sea stack around the other side that can only be seen from the water. This sea stack is called the Old Man.

From the observation platform, looking back up the cliff, with the lighthouse at the top right.

On the trail back we stopped to take a picture of this tree with the bunches of red berries. These trees are all throughout the hills, mixed in with the fir trees, in this part of the Gaspe Peninsula. 

When we got back to the trailhead, we went over to nearby picnic area, with a view of Gaspe Bay, to eat our lunch and look for whales. When we were finishing, who should show up but the Google Street-views guy.

Walking down the trail to the beach.

This "street" view of the Anse-Aux-Amerindiens will soon be available on Google maps. That's a Park employee trailing him.

Another view of the car with the big camera on top and the California license plate.

After the hike we headed into the town of Gaspe to do some grocery shopping before we head out tomorrow morning.  

Two guys walking their kayak across the street in downtown Gaspe. 

This cruise ship was in Gaspe Harbour, one of the world's most beautiful natural harbors. 

After shopping we stopped by the Musee de la Gaspesie and the adjoining Jacques Cartier Monument. We only had a 1/2 hour to view the museum before it closed which was too bad, it was a fascinating place. The Museum of Gaspesie presents exhibits about the history of the region and works by local artists. There were four featured exhibits. The permanent exhibition tours the Gaspe Peninsula from west to east, along the seashore and through the mountains. In addition, there were three temporary exhibitions. 
 
Photographic artist Linda Rutenberg took these pictures of Gaspe in the winter. They are stunning.

Seeing a locale through the eyes of an artist. Wood piles.

Fishing crates waiting for warmer weather.

Ice-fishing houses.

Another exhibition told the story of the "kitchen parties", what we saw as ceilidh on Prince Edward Island. This exhibition was multi-media, combining a conventional museum display, above, with projected images, story-telling, music and special effects.

The fourth exhibition was by painter Claude Picher.

A contemporary view of the Gaspe.

Outside of the Museum was this sculpture of "Mother Earth." It is meant to represent all women of the peninsula, from the Mi'kmaq to the present.

This sculpture is huge -  Mother Earth.

Commemorating the French explorer's landing is the Jacques Cartier Monument. Six slabs, shaped like dolmens, recall Cartier's Breton heritage and depict the events of his landing in Gaspe in 1534.


Mi'kmaq coming out to greet Chartier.

Chartier interacting with the Mi'kmaq.

As we were leaving Gaspe, this rainbow formed over the city. A good luck omen, we think.

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