Carhenge

Perhaps the strangest attraction in Nebraska is the full-scale replica of England's famous Stonehenge built entirely from old cars. 

Arranged in the exact size, shape, and conformation of Stonehenge, it allegedly "works", meaning it marks the solstices and equinoxes. Local resident Jim Reinders got the idea in 1982 when his family gathered at the family farm after his father died. They decided to build a tribute to his father and gathered five years later to begin. 

Carhenge is built from 38 cars, painted gray. Some are half-buried, others are welded together, and some jut from the ground at odd angles, mimicking the present semi-ruined configuration of Stonehenge.

Other artists have contributed sculptures to the area as well. Two of the most notable are a colorful spawning salmon...

and a dinosaur.

In recent years, more automobile sculptures have been added.

Carhenge is in Alliance, about half way between Lake Minatare and Chadron State Park where we will be for the next few days.  It is actually very close to the South Dakota border and the Black Hill can be glimpsed from some of the higher elevation viewpoints.

But first we had to travel through some picturesque rolling hills heading north.

There are 70 RV sites in Chadron State Park. There is one other RV here so we have the park campground pretty much to ourselves. We think the large rock in the background is Steamboat Butte.

There is a stable and horseback rides offered in the park. These horses are at the top of the hill right behind our bedroom window.

After getting settled we walked the park's scenic road. There is some pretty dramatic scenery here.

There was quite an extensive forest fire in the park in 2012 and the work to clear the charred trees continues. We passes this marker - a heart-shaped slice of tree with a cross carved out of the center.

Chimney Rock

I won't say that today was a total wash-out, but it did rain most of the day and it was cold, in the 40s. We stayed inside doing trip planning until late this afternoon when the rain paused and we drove the 25 miles south to Chimney Rock.

Visible to wagon trains from several days away, Chimney Rock was the most noted landmark along the Oregon Trail. Rising 470 feet above the North Platte River Valley, Chimney Rock is the most celebrated of all natural formations along the overland routes to California, Oregon, and Utah. Chimney Rock served as an early landmark for fur traders, trappers, and mountain men as they made their way from the Rockies to the Missouri River. To later emigrants, the solitary spire marked the end of plains travel and the beginning of the rugged mountain portion of their journey. Scotts Bluff is  almost an additional two days travel, by wagon.

It was after 5 o'clock when we arrived at the Visitor Center, which was closed.

Love that the warning is in German, French, Spanish and Chinese. We thought we wouldn't have to worry about the rattlers since it was so cold today.

We parked in the Visitor Center parking lot and walked down the road and around a cattle pasture to find a trail out to the rock that Frederick had seen on Google Earth. He had also seen this cemetery, the inscription reads - "During the Westward migration through this pass many died as they looked for a better life."

On May 27, 1847, Brigham Young led the first of many Mormon Pioneers past Scotts Bluff to their new home in the Great Salt Lake Valley in Utah territory. Interestingly, the Mormons followed the north bank of the Platte from the Missouri River to Fort Laramie 50 miles west of Scotts Bluff, to keep separate from the "Gentiles" who used the south bank of the Platte. At Laramie, the Oregon and Mormon Trails merged. In the Chimney Rock Cemetery is this marker for Mary Murray Murdoch, "Wee Granny", Born Scotland Oct. 13, 1782, Died near Chimney Rock Neb. Oct. 2, 1856, "Tell John I died with my face toward Zion". 

Many of the Mormon emigrants came from England and Scotland. They were so poor they couldn't afford wagons or draft animals and used carts that they pushed by hand. 

This is as close as we cared to get to the monument. You might notice that there if a line at about the center of the picture, that is where a small valley begins and with the rain it was very slippery. 

The official state marker for Chimney Rock on the Oregon Trail.

Scotts Bluff

Beaver was the lure that brought men west. The mountain men systematically explored new lands in the all-consuming quest for the "hairy bank notes". Their heyday lasted roughly from 1803, when the Louisiana Territory was purchased from France, until the late 1830's collapse of the beaver market.

During this time period the fur trade was the principal business activity in the western wilderness. In 1811, John Jacob Astor founded a fur trade post, Fort Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River. He sent a party overland and they crossed the mountains using the route Lewis and Clark blazed up the Missouri. Fighting the strong current made the ascent a long, arduous trip and fighting belligerent Indians who lived along the river's shores also made it perilous. A partner of Astor's, Robert Stuart, who was on the expedition, returned to report to Astor on their troubles and he chose to return by another route. Stuart and six companions were the first white men to travel what was to become the Oregon Trail, but they travelled in reverse. They discovered the famed South Pass - Sweetwater - Platte River route, the trail used during the pioneer emigration and by mountain men bringing their pelts east.

In 1832, Captain B. L. Bonneville led 110 men and 20 heavily loaded wagons to the Rocky Mountain trapping grounds. His were the first wagons to cross the Continental Divide. Ten years later, in 1842, Lieutenant John C. Fremont, undertook the first of his famous expeditions. Fremont, known as the "Great Pathfinder", widely publicized his westward journeys. His report and map later served as one of the first guidebooks for emigrants traveling along the Platte River.

In 1841 the first emigrant group, the Tidwell-Gartleson party, left Missouri for new homes in Oregon Territory. Traffic swelled on the Great Platte River Road from 1843 to 1848. Oregon and Utah were the preferred destinations and during this period, about 15,000 settlers took advantage of this opportunity.  Each offered the prospect of a new home and a new way of life. In 1848 gold was discovered in California and in 1849 the mass migration to California began with nearly 30,000 headed overland to strike it rich. The year 1850 was the zenith for emigrant travel with over 55,000 persons headed West and the migration continued until 1869 and the coming of the railroad. In the years 1841 - 1869 some 350,000 people joined wagon trains that set out westward, the largest voluntary emigration in history.

Yesterday we heard that Ash Hallow was a milestone for the pioneers, today it was all about Scotts Bluff. I guess both had their appeal to the travelers, but Scotts Bluff marked the end of the plains, what was known as "The Great American Desert". The travelers gauged their 3-mile-per-hour- progress by using pioneer-era mile markers that lay upon the ever-distant horizon: Courthouse and Jail Rocks, then Chimney Rock, and finally Scotts Bluff. Called by the Plains Indians "hill hard to get around", it is now a National Monument.

After stopping in the Visitor Center and viewing the exhibits, we headed out to climb Scotts Bluff. There is a road and you can drive to the top, but why would you do that if you can walk and climb the 1.6 mile trail?

The trail is called Saddle Rock Trail and this is the formation for which the trail is named.

Along the trail you could dial a number and receive a description of the geology or vegetation. There is one tunnel that was hand-dug and Frederick is dialing his phone to get the details on the construction.

Just like Nebraska roads, you can see where you have been on the trail up the bluff.

Dialing for more information!  We have now reached the saddle formation.

From on top of the bluff you can just make out the Platte River (little patches of blue) and the "bad lands" between the river and the bluffs that forced the pioneers to find a route through the bluffs.

And there it is.  The little cluster of buildings at center right is the Visitor Center and parking lot. Just above that you can see todays highway that travels through Mitchell Pass, the same route as the Oregon Trail.

From the viewpoint up on the bluff you can see the sweeping auto road that travels to the top.

As we were traveling the trail back down we heard the now familiar sound of a rattle. (Snake in the center of the picture.)

While we waited, the snake crossed the path in front of us.

We couldn't say that we weren't warned!

We were amused by this sign at the end of one of the switch-backs. Like where else would you be going down the trail?

Nice view south, across the prairie from which the pioneers would have come.

Look carefully and you can see that there has been a rock slide that has covered the trail. You can also see the place on the side of the bluff from where the rocks fell.

To me, this side of the bluff looked like a poured concrete foundation.

The trail, Saddle Mountain formation, and the prairie beyond.

Back through the tunnel.

I had just mentioned that we had not seen any prickly-pear in Nebraska when there it was up on the bluff. But, it is very small. That's the tip of my trekking pole at the bottom of the picture. Texas prickly-pear would have been ten-times this size!

Back down, we headed out to the Oregon Trail.

This is Mitchell Pass through Scotts Bluff. There is a highway to the left.

This is the actual Oregon Trail. You don't see two wagon wheel tracks because the wheels softened the soil which eroded creating this "swale". 

The official state marker stating that the Oregon Trail passed 37 feet from this spot.

At this point the Oregon Trail and the California Trail are joined. This is also the route of the Pony Express.

Looking back through Mitchell Pass. Notice the storm clouds gathering.

In addition to being the route of the Oregon Trail, Scotts Bluff is also a Nebraska geo-site.  Scotts Bluff is a remnant of the ancestral high plains and at one time the plains were hundreds of feet higher, on a level as the top of Scotts Bluff. Four or five million years ago the land began to erode faster than new strata from the newly uplifting Rocky Mountains could be deposited by wind, water, and occasional volcanic eruptions. Some limestone concretions in isolated patches near the surface happened to be more durable than the surrounding material. Known as cap rock, this stone roof has protected Scotts bluff so far from the same fate as the adjacent lands. 

Mr. Spock observing Scotts Bluff from the vicinity of Mitchell Pass.

Spock and Frederick contemplating becoming pioneers and traveling west via covered wagon. (The cover is off for the winter.)

Spock almost took off on his own, but you'll be happy to know that he decided to return to the car with us. More geo-sites to be seen in the up-coming states.

This young woman is Morgan. She remained remarkably patient with us and was able to answer all our questions with this most pleasant smile. Thank you, Morgan, for all your help!

Ash Hollow

This morning we stopped in Ogallala to get fuel and attached to the station was an A&W with this sign on the door - "A&W will be closing at 5 p.m. on Saturday, April 25th so that our employees can enjoy High School Prom. Thank you, Management". Management has the right priorities in a small town.

One thing about Kansas and Nebraska, you always can see where you are going.

Today we travelled the Western Trails Scenic and Historic Byway in the panhandle of Nebraska. Plenty of western trails cut through Ogallala on the eastern edge including the Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail, Pony Express, Union Pacific, and Texas Trail. Originally an outpost for fur trappers,  pioneers followed. But it was the coming of the Union Pacific Railroad that attracted massive cattle drives from Texas to Ogallala in the summer months in the latter part of the 19th century, with ten to twelve herds, each with 2,500 head of cattle. 

Leaving Ogallala we travelled the same route that pioneers travelled and stopped at the Ash Hollow State Historical Park just beyond Lake McConaughey. Ash Hollow provided a haven for weary travelers for centuries. Prehistoric Native Americans used the area for encampments, and pioneer wagon trains would rest here for a day or two because of the fresh water springs and broad meadows. 

Ash Hollow Park is in two sections. We stopped first at Windlass Hill. The Oregon, California and Mormon Trails came through this part of Nebraska to follow the Platt River. In order to reach the Platt, Pioneers had to descend from the high prairie to the river by descending Windlass Hill 

I'm sure this sign was not here when the pioneers came through, but today it points out the direction that was followed by the wagon trains to reach Ash Hollow and the Platte River.

Marker placed by the state to commemorate the Oregon Trail at Windlass Hill.

This part of the hill was used so often that the wagon tracks created a path for erosion to form this gully.

We climbed to the top of Windlass Hill and could look out and see the track of the wagon wheels as they descended the hills. The descent of Windlass Hill was accomplished several ways - some tied ropes to the back of their wagons and used "people-power" to slow them; others used their oxen, and still others locked the wheels to make them slide.

The parking lot and Airstream from the top of Windlass Hill.

From Windlass Hill we drove the 2 1/2 miles to Ash Hallow. Pioneers were rewarded with a pleasant place to camp and fresh spring water to drink. Road-weary pioneers rested and repaired wagons and harness while their mules and oxen grazed the lush grasses. 

Emigrant guidebooks of the period indicated that Ash Hollow Springs provided the best water of any stop along the Overland Trail. 

There is a Visitor Center that is supposed to be open on Friday - Sunday, but it was closed today because today is a state holiday in Nebraska - Arbor Day. The first Arbor Day was on April 10, 1872  when an estimated 1 million trees were planted in Nebraska.  

No matter, we knocked on the door and begged Jeff, the superintendent of the park, to let us come in and view the exhibits. We looked so interested he allowed us in.

This is an arial shot of the overland trail coming across the ridge and descending Windlass Hill into Ash Hollow.

The exhibits were great with some bones of prehistoric rhinoceros, mammoths, and mastodons, all ancient mammals that once roamed the Great Plains. 

An artist's imagining of what that looked like.

Archaeological excavations in Ash Hollow indicate that early man used the area as much as 6,000 years ago. 

• Big Game Hunter Period ca. 10,000 B.C. - 6,000 B.C. - The earliest visitors hunted the mammoth and large species of bison. 
• Foragers Period ca. 6,000 B.C. - A.D. 1 - Nomadic groups still hunted bison, deer and small game. Evidence also indicated increased use of wild vegetable foods.
• Early Potters Period ca. A.D. 1 - A.D. 900 - Pottery, the use of bow and arrow, and the cultivation of corn and squash are diagnostic of this period. Village sites have been found where small structures, consisting of a circle of poles covered with mats or skins build over a shallow dish-shape depression, were used.
• Prehistoric Farmers Period ca. A.D 900 - A.D. 1500 - Communities ranging in size from one or two houses up to 30 houses were occupied during this period. The houses, called earth lodges, were square in outline with heavy post sub-structures covered by willow branch mats, grass thatch, and a sod and dirt outer layer. A variety of tools and well made pottery indicates specialization of labor made possible by a stable food supply. 
• Large Village Period ca. A.D. 1500 - A.D. 1800 - Increased population and warfare, possible due to population pressure, are suggested by the large, sometimes fortified earthen villages of this period. New styles in pottery were introduced and in the later part of the period trade goods begin to appear. 

Points and implements from the various periods - bottom row, Big Game Hunters Period; next row up, Foragers Period; Early potters Period; top row, Prehistoric Farmers Period.

Large Village Period.

The exhibits also featured a description of the various periods of westward expansion which we may address tomorrow. 

During this afternoon's drive we kept our eyes on the clouds which were beautiful but also the type of clouds that spawn thunderstorms. Railroad tracks travel this part of the Oregon Trail, too, and we saw many long trains.

The beginning of the bluffs, threatening sky, and more trains.

We made it to Lake Minatare State Recreation Area, outside Scotts Bluff, before the rain.

Like Minatare's landmark lighthouse was a beacon of hope in the dark days of the "Great Depression," when many Americans were jobless. It was built entirely of native stone between 1937 and 1939 by the Veterans ConservationCorps (VCC) Camp BR-1. The unusual structure stands 55 feet tall and was intended to serve as a combination shelter house and observation tower. Built to simulate a lighthouse, it is the only such structure in Nebraska. Frederick is there for scale.

We took our chances with the weather and walked on the beach. Those are some pretty threatening clouds.

Heading back up the beach to the Airstream.